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Mounting the Brakes and Rudders

December 26, 2016

I assembled my rudder and brakes over a year ago.  It is something you do on the bench since it has lots of parts to track.  When you finish they tell you to to put it all away until you are ready to put them in for good.  That is what I did today.

I started with getting the center support installed.  I have been waiting for this because I made the part a long time ago and am sick of having to keep track of it.  I also decided to drill some new holes to move the rudders about an 1.5″ closer to where I will be.

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This is the center support bracket for the rudders and brakes.

I got the bolts tightened and torqued to the proper setting.  The rudders move very well, with very little binding.  Next it was time for the brake plumbing.  It took me about an hour to find all the parts.  Again, I am hampered by the move and not being able to find all the pieces where I think they should be.

The process isn’t really well described.  They plans show you how everything should be assembled, but not the finer points.  The FIRST thing you need to do is slip on the ferrel and the nut.  If you forget to do this first, you’ll be remaking the tube.  There isn’t much spare, about enough to remake two lengths.

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They suggest hot water to help get the little brass inserts into the tube.  This is a great idea.  All I can suggest is that the water needs to be near boiling.  The hotter the better.  You will also need some lube.  I used a lithium grease paste that I have.  This worked very well.  You dont need much just a fine skim on the the sleeve.

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HOT HOT HOT Water…..

20161226_20212120161226_202131Once you have the sleeve started, I pushed hard against the side of my work bench.  You can see all the marks from previous ends.   Sometimes it took me a second soaking in hot water to get the sleeve flush with the end of the tube.

Once the sleeve is on you have to convince the ferrule to slip over the sleeve and tube.  This is tough.  More lube…dont use pliers or some other direct way of coaxing the ferrel.  ANY damage to the ferrule can cause leaks.  I used a vice grip around the tube behind the nut and I pulled the ferrule onto the sleeve.  You have to move it up just enough so you can get the thread on the nut and fitting to catch.  Then you can use a 1/2″ wrench to draw the ferrule into its final position.

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